Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
